The culture of Bali: sacrifices, feasts, dance and ceremonies
Canang Sari
Sacrifices makes up a big part of life in Bali. You cannot imagine a day in the life without. They are celebrated everywhere in Bali, on the streets, under the trees, in cars, shops and holy places. A Canang Sari made of banana leaves filled with cookies, rice and sometimes even money, is meant not only to appease spirits and gods, but are also beautiful temporary pieces of art. An average family spends at least half of its income on a variety of sacrifices. This is regarded as a token of piety and gratitude. If people do not have time to make it themselves or if special ceremonies requires elaborate shapes , they may be bought on the market place or ordered with a Tukang Banten (sacrifice specialist).
Religious feasts
Temple feasts are the right opportunity to experience Bali feast in all its ceremonial splendour. Music, traditionally dressed women, wearing sacrifices on their head , dance, temple rituals, incense, sacrifices, food or sometimes even some not permitted roosterfights, all in a loud and busy atmosphere!
The Balinese have two calendars. The lunar calendar Saka started in 78 AD and has 355 days. Every three years an extra month is added to the year. The Pawukon- or Wuku calendar has a cycle of 210 days with overlapping one to ten day periods, of which the overlaps determine the Odalan (temple feasts). As a whole these calendars define the intricate schedule of holy feasts celebrated in Bali.
According to the Saka calendar the year ends in the 9th lunar month with Pengrupukan (New Years Eve). Since the end of the year is based on the lunar cycle, this date differs every year some day between mid March and mid April. On New Years Eve animals are sacrificed to appease evil spirits. At sunset the Bali make as much noise as they can rattling pots, pans and bambu sticks and firing crackers and bambu canons to chase the evil spirits away. Giant monster made of mashed paper called Ogoh Ogoh (see picture with 3 different images) are burnt by an unleashed crowd on every crossroads.
The new year starts with Nyepi (which means tranquillity). On this day everyone stays quietly in 24 hours from sunset and life on Bali is put to a hold. Even the airport of Bali, Ngurah Rai, is closed down. It is the only airport in the world that is out of service for one day a year. All tourists are expected to maintain a low profile. You can leave your hotel room but you are not allowed to go out on the streets and there a strict control of it. You had better take into account that on the days before and after Nyepi restaurants and shops are closed.
Galugan and Kuningan
On of the principal Hindu feasts in Bali is the celebration of the Galungang. Galungang celebrates the return of the Balinese gods and ancestors to Bali. Balinese families welcome and entertain the gods with prayers, sacrifices, and by holding ceremonies that cleanse and restore the balance of the inner and outer energy of the island. Galungan lasts ten days, during which also the Barong dances from temple to temple in the variety of villages are performed. The real origin of the Galungan feast is still a mystery but the idea is to symbolize with this feast the victory of Good over Evil.
With the Kuningan Celebration, ten days after the start of the Galungan, the Galungan is closed. On this day Balinese families commemorate the return of their ancestors to heaven, after a ten days stay on Earth. The thank the gods for their mercy on the human races. Every village in Bali celebrates Kuningan in great style, with special dishes, special sacrifices of yellow rice and colourful temple ornaments.
The dates of thes religious feasts for 2010 are
- Tuesday, March 16 Nyepi
- Tuesday May 12 Galungan
- Saturday May 22 Kuningan
- Wednesday December 8 Galungan
- Saturday December 18 Kuningan
Barong dancing
Barong and Rangda
A well known dance in Bali is the Barong dance. It is one of the many great stories featuring Rangda, the terrible queen-widow, and the guardian ghost Barong, impersonated by two dancers in a drama dance performance. There are several Barong dresses and suits, most common is the Barong Keket, a mythic entity with a red face, bulging eyes, big teeth, horns and a golden tiara with tiny mirrors (see picture).
One of the many stories tells about Rangda ruling over the evil demons and roaming the graveyards. She is both feared and respected since she can protect people from evil. The showdown is more than a clash of Good of Evil. According to the Balinese people one cannot exist without the other. None of them will win or loose. The excitement reaches its peak when the Barong dancers come under the black magic spell of Rangda, and put their kris (blade) to their chest in a deep trance.
When Barong appears he protects everyone from injuries. A priest reanimates the possessed by sprinkling holy water made of Barongs strong beard of human hair.
Every morning there are no less than three open air Barog dance shows in Batubulan a small village east of Denpasar. If you would like to see a show you can contact PoolvillasBali.
Kecak dancing
The Kecak dance is an ugly rhythmic sound made by a circle of 10 seated and barechested men. With stretched arms and fingers, and around an oil lamp the men sing in rhythm and repeating Chak, ke-chak, ke-chak, ke-chak, ke-chak. with these sounds and hand gestures they tell a story. The main characters are impersonated by beautifully dressed female dancers standing and dancing in the circle. The Kecak is virtually the only dance show without music. It is amazing that a mere kecak sound manages to tell a beautiful story.
In Uluwatu you can admire the Kecak dance in a beautiful location.
Cremation
A cremation in Bali is not necessarily a sad ceremony. If you are familiar with Balinese culture and the nature of Balinese religion, you might be aware of the long duration, complex and elaborate ceremonies that can even take the form of a feast. The ceremonies include musical performances of a gamelan orchestra, wayang puppet plays and sacral dances.
The preparation and the actual ceremony take days. When a Balinese person dies, preparations for the cremation are started. The entire village assists in constructing cremations and a sarcophagus. The latter is chopped from a full tree trunk in a shape that suits the caste of the deceased. The sarcophagus is adorned with gold leaf, altars, towers , gold paper and mirrors. The very heavy sarcophagus, laid on bambu supports, is carried by strong men from the village to the death temple in a frenzied procession with shouting and heavy gamelan music. On every street corner they pass the bambu supports are twisted heavily. The Balinese people do this to prevent the soul of the deceased from going back home. This would only bring calamity to the family. In the end the body is surrendered to an all consuming fire. A few days after the cremation cleansing ceremonies and sacrifices are celebrated.
A cremation is a very expensive ceremony. Families that cannot afford the cremation will bury their beloved deceased first. But this is only temporary. Even year after passing away the remains of the deceased are exhumed. And one takes part in a mass cremation. The costs of the mass cremation are divided over several families. No matter if it is about a single or a mass cremation the ceremonies are just as spectacular and grotesque. Every Balinese person must undergo the final rite of transition, before his of her soul can pass to a new existence.
If you want to attend a ceremony in Bali it is advisable to honour a few simple rules. Traditional cloths will contribute to a great deal in accepting your presence. Attending a spectacular and colourful cremation in Bali is a very special experience.
Filing teeth
Pontong gigi
One of the main events for a Balinese person is the pontong gigi, Indonesian for filing teeth. According to the Balinese people the upper frontal and corner incisor teeth symbolise the six enemies of the soul, which are desire (kama), greed (loba), rage (kroda), addiction (mada), confusion (moha) and envy (matsarya). According to the Balinese people the bestial and savage tendencies of a person are destroyed in this ceremony. Teeth filing marks the end of parental authority and is performed for the sake of economizing together with a wedding ceremony.
The ceremony is accompanied by a priest. Pontong gigi always comes with exciting gamelan music. The music turns the priest into a light trance after which he will bless the colourful sacrifices made by numerous women from the village with holy water and several mantras. Following tradition every Balinese person has the obligation to perform pontong gigi on his children.
Pontong gigi is a family matter and can therefor only be attended upon invitation.